In October over a billion Chinese people get a week off work and school to celebrate National Day, and everyone goes on holiday. We had to hand over our passports to
the Public Security Bureau in order to get our residency permits, so we
couldn’t fly anywhere. We were able to get a train as long as we had
photocopies of our passports and the receipt from the Public Security Bureau to
say they had it. We decided to go to Nanjing for 3 days first, just an hour and
a half west of Suzhou. And then on to Hangzhou for 3 days, an hour and a half south of Suzhou. Our first
train (to Nanjing) was at 8am, and so we got to Nanjing at around 9.30. We were
too early to check in so we went wandering around the Qinhuai district where
the Confucius Temple is and other tourist attractions. There is lots of street
food here and gift shops, and it is just on the banks of the Qinhuai River. We
decided to get a taxi to the hotel as our bags were heavy. We had the hotel
confirmation up on our phones, with the address in English and Chinese. The
first two shook their heads and drove off, leaving us in the middle of the road
shouting ‘but why?!’. The third taxi took us, and we never figured out what the
problem had been.
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Relaxing in first class (it was all they had) on the way to Nanjing |
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Outside Confucius Temple |
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Confucius |
The Presidential Palace was our next stop. This used to be the royal residency and housed the Office
of the President of the Republic of China from 1927 until 1949. Now it’s a
museum. This was nice, it reminded me a lot of the gardens in Suzhou. It was
fairly busy but it was so big inside that it wasn’t much of a problem. After
this, we went to check out the Gate of China (also known as Zhonghua Gate).
This wall was built by Emperor Zhu YuanZhang from 1366 to 1387, to defend
Nanjing from attack. Zhonghua Gate is the south gate of the city. We walked for
quite a while to get here and it was really nice to look at, as it was night
time and all lit up. There is quite a lot to see inside but we were too hungry
to stick around. Qinhuai district by night was full of tourists but this only
added to the pleasant atmosphere. I noticed people wandering around with little
red balls on a stick, I decided to try one and it was literally mini toffee
apples on a stick. Worth the 10 kuai.
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Presidential Palace garden |
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Gate of China |
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Qinhuai District with my toffee apples |
We decided to spend a whole day at Dr. Sun Yat-Sen’s
Mausoleum. He was one of the leaders of the Chinese democratic revolution and
the ‘father’ of the Republic of China. This attraction is within a large scenic
area, which allegedly represents an alarm bell as can be seen from the air. It
was quite a long walk up to the Mausoleum but definitely worth it (although it
was swarming with wasps). It was really busy but not in a restrictive way, we
were just walking with a herd of other people all the time. Once we got up to
the mausoleum at the top of the steps it was beautiful. You have to queue to
actually go into the Mausoleum and you just walk straight around and go out
again, as you are in a line and not allowed to take pictures. There is a huge
statue of Sun Yat-Sen and then a bloke in front of it shouting the Chinese
equivalent of ‘oi’ at anyone trying to take pictures. We then paid quite a lot
to go into the garden area containing the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum. We all got
quite hungry but the only food around seemed to be really expensive pot
noodles. Trying to get back to the metro station we got quite lost and
deliriously hungry. We wandered into a food place and paid 18 kuai for what
looked like a decent meal and turned out to be a pot noodle - heartbreaking.
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View from the Mausoleum
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View of the Mausoleum (and me and Ant) |
One of the things I was most looking forward to seeing was the
Nanjing Massacre Memorial, as I have seen documentaries and read about this
before. It's a museum built in 1985 to remember the people killed in the
Nanjing Massacre or the Rape of Nanjing (1937).
The first thing you see on the way in is a huge statue of a woman
holding a dead baby. There are smaller statues all along the way up to the main
entrance of victims along with quotes from first-hand accounts. Just from this I knew the museum was going to be intense. It was
quite cramped inside and the captions were very small, but apart from this it
was really well laid out. It didn’t actually go into as much detail about the
killings as I thought it would, but that’s probably because they are horrific.
One interesting fact I found was about a German called John Rabe who worked for
German Siemens Corporation. He settled in Nanjing and became the director in
charge of the Nanjing branch of the Nazi party. He hid potential victims of the
massacre in his house, which is also now a museum.
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Main statue on the way into the Museum |
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One of the smaller statues on the way to the entrance |
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The Peace Bell in the garden of the memorial museum: it was installed the day before the 66th anniversary of the massacre, and weighs 6.6 tons to represent the anniversary |
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Another one from the museum garden |
The area we stayed in in Hangzhou was picturesque and really
lively. We were right on a cobbled street full of shops, cafes and bars. A lot
of the bars were coffee shops by day so were really cosy and welcoming. We went
for a drink on the second night and ended up staying out longer than expected.
We were just on our way out and had paid the bill, when two Chinese blokes
asked if we would stay and talk them if they bought as another beer. I looked at Kate and she apprehensively replied ‘erm, you have to say yes to everything in
China…’. So we stayed and chatted to them. This was really cool because they
spoke a bit of English but not very much, so it meant we got to use quite a lot
of Chinese and practice. We ended up agreeing to meet them again the following
night but I woke up quite hungover and immediately decided against it. On the
last morning we treated ourselves to a proper coffee at one of the cafes - it was perfect. Coffee is quite expensive here so I have gone without, but the coffee
shops looked too appealing. We then went to the Grand Canal, the longest canal
in the world which runs all the way to Beijing. I felt quite ill at this point
and didn’t fancy walking too far up it, but it was a great place to see.
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Top notch coffee |
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The Grand Canal |
As it rained quite badly for the rest of the day we decided
to get a boat on the lake. The lake was all misty and choppy and although it was raining we stood on the deck and took loads of pictures. The boat took us to a scenic area on an island
and then to the other side of the lake. We had a wander but then discovered
that the boats had stopped. We were absolutely starving and couldn’t find the
right bus as all of the traffic on the main road was going the same way.
Finally we found out that the traffic on the other side of the road was turning
around somewhere, so we eventually got food and got home. I would say that has been the main issue with travelling around China. We ended up in fairly touristy places (as that's where most of the stuff is) and its hard to find a descent and affordable place to eat. Maybe that's because we live in small communities of local people in Suzhou and so notice the price difference more.
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Looking very tangled up in red on our boat trip |
I expected the whole week to be busier and wetter than it
was. There were lots of people but it never restricted us in anyway and we were
never queuing for long. We did see lots of other foreigners in Hangzhou which
was strange. I have only seen the odd one in Suzhou outside of our ELA group.
The weather was also much better than expected. It only rained properly on the
last day and we actually had a really sunny day in Hangzhou. Nanjing was very
polluted and grey but nothing troublesome. Overall a very successful first
holiday in China.
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Lit up high-rise buildings in Nanjing combined with pollution to create some lovely colours |
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Hangzhou train station on our way home: as mentioned in one of my previous blogs, the stations are like airports. You can see the gates along the sides |